Letters from Mongolia 2009 – Maggie Ball and Carol Gregory

Maggie’s Letters

1^st Letter from Mongolia – 23^rd July, 2009

Dear All,

Arrived safely in Ulaanbaatar after a long journey - about 24 hours door to door! We had to scramble at Seoul - only 50 minutes connection time and we all had to have our temp taken to make sure we weren't suffering from swine flu. Fortunately Carol talked to one of the attendants who took us up to the front of the queue so we could get through. Then we had to change terminals and get a train, then go and get boarding passes. Made it to the gate with about 20 mins before the flight due to leave, but it was a little late.

Selenge and Aruika greeted us at the airport. What an amazing sight as we came out with all our luggage - a sea of Mongolian faces there to meet their friends and family. Selenge was there with her big smile, waving excitedly at us. Aruika brought us some flowers. She has grown so tall and is beautiful (now 12 years old). Selenge's brother borrowed an SUV from a friend and we just fit in with all the luggage. They had big floods in UB just before we got here. Streets are very wet, but weather clear and sunny today.

Selenge's Mum was at the apartment to greet us. We fell into bed - about midnight by the time we got all the luggage in etc.

This morning we have come to the Quilting Center - it's so fantastic to see the place. They've worked hard to make it inviting and their beautiful work is well displayed. I'm taking lots of photos to bring back. They are making new items and have some gorgeous silk pieces, jackets, appliqué quilts and more. The women are happy to see us and enthusiastic.

More later.

Love Maggie

 

2^nd Letter from Mongolia – 24^th July, 2009

Dear All,

We are doing fine. When we arrived there was no hot water. It won't be fixed for at least 3 weeks... Half of yesterday was much worse - no water at all! It started running again about midnight, much to our relief.

The night was punctuated by much coming and going outside. There is row of containers and I wondered if there was some nighttime trading taking place - who knows! Before 5.00 am workman were digging trenches and laying a flexible pipe. They had to thread it under the road and played tug of war with it to pull it through. There was much shouting together as they heaved - reminded me of the fish hurling at Pike Street! It was comical to watch.

We've spent most of the day today buying supplies for our trip to Western Mongolia and spent hours in the black market - very tiring as it was hot and dusty and we had to buy quite a few things for camping as well as gifts to take to the nomadic families we will visit along the way. Carol showed mild interest in some buttons a woman was selling from a wooden tray. In a matter of minutes she was surrounded by women with trays of beads, one of whom as rather pushy. We made an escape and another lady followed, hanging around while we helped Selenge select some silks for reversible bowls and ties (latter is a new product at the Center).  We were hungry by the time we had lunch at 2.30 pm.

Ann Hutchinson from Vancouver, WA has been here. She's traveling back home and is taking a bag full of items from the Center for us. We spent some time sorting out what we wanted - more of the same culprits - bags, aprons, reversible bowls, oven mitts etc and filled up a small duffle bag. It was nice to see her and so kind of her to help us out with taking things back. 

Nigel requested a bird report - well, so far it's only been house sparrows, feral pigeons, carrion crow and many swifts. It's lovely to hear the swifts wheeling around early in the morning. The last two times I've been here there have been choughs making their eerie noises outside. This time, I haven't heard or seen any choughs. Birding reports should be much more interesting from Western Mongolia, but we probably won't have internet access...  

Time to go now. Will try to send one more report tomorrow, then on Sunday we'll be off to Khovd and Western Mongolia.

Love Maggie 

 

3^rd Letter from Mongolia – 25^th July, 2009

Dear All,

Today has been even hotter and stickier - 31 degrees C! It should be cooler when we are in Western Mongolia - leave tomorrow morning for that expedition and did food shopping today. We will be going to one or two lakes that are excellent for birds, but they also have large populations of mosquitoes so we've spent some time trying to track down netting. Finally found some at a rather up-market camping/outdoor store. Whether or not I can see through my binoculars when wearing the mosquito net remains to be seen...

Have added another two species to the bird list - black kite and magpie. There was a family of magpies creating quite a fuss on the top of the containers behind our apartment. The swifts are the variety with white rumps.

Last night was much quieter, with no workman heaving pipes early in the morning.

Went to the Irish pub last night and sat outside drinking Mongolian beer while listening to a rock band called A Sound - not bad at all. The locals seemed to enjoy it too. The city Mongolian girls wear high stiletto heels that don't look very comfortable at all! 

We've had a good couple of days at the Center with overseas visitors making big purchases. The women are thrilled. They sold 3 quilts this morning! The variety of products is wonderful and some of the women are extremely good at making things that they see pictures of in books or magazines. Anita Warner gave me a little microwave oven mitt to bring over to show the women. We went off shopping and by the time we came back, one of the women had worked out how to make it and had already finished one. They have a tradition after they make a good sale, of waving the money over the items on display - to bring prosperity and sales - seems to have worked well in the last 48 hours!

It may be a while before I can write again. We'll be away until 9th August in Western Mongolia. Sosoo, one of the teachers is going to be teaching a group of 25 women in the Uvs area. We will join her to help for a couple of days at the end of our trip.

If we get to an internet cafe, I'll be in touch during our travels.

Love Maggie

 

4^th Letter from Mongolia – 3^rd August, 2009 - Alive and well in Bayan Olgy

Dear All,
            Limited time in Olgy at internet cafe, but wanted to let you know that all is well and we are having an amazing time. Looking forward to a shower this evening! So much has happened in the last week.
            We began at Black Water Lake - camped by the lake. Beautiful with some great birds - Pallas's Gulls in breeding plumage and over 100 Eurasian Spoonbill. Night sky was absolutely spectacular with no man made lights in sight. We made a quick getaway in the morning when the mosquitoes were thick. On to a cave with prehistoric drawings - a bit of a bust - lots of graffiti and pigeon droppings, but we managed to find one good drawing of some kind of animal.
            On to Tsambagarov Mountain arriving after a long journey and very tired. Weather cold and windy, but Selenge arranged for us to share a ger (yurt) with a local family. We slept on the floor. Grandparents and 2 young grandkids in the beds. The next day was fine and the mountain top clear - so lovely. Snow Buntings hopping around outside the ger door and White Winged Redstarts at the lake. About 150 goats spent the night just outside the ger, so avoiding stepping in goats’ poo impossible! We rode horses to a nearby ridge, dismounted and climbed up the last rocky part for a fabulous view up to the glacier and down the valley. Rode horses back again. Pitched the tents and camped. Elevation - over 9,000 ft. Around 4.00 a.m. it began to snow and by 5.30 a.m. the ground and tents had a thin covering and it was cold! Fortunately, weather cleared up and tents dried quite quickly - it was very pretty too!
            Our friendly family were invited to the home of a local Kazakh family for a neighbourhood gathering - a big deal as Mongolians not usually invited to Kazakhs. We were invited too and fitted and extra 5 into our van for the trip. It was amazing - very formal to start with. About 20 people in all - big mat on the ground with lots of bread, cheese, candy and we all had tea. Later enormous platters of meat arrived with flat flour noodles. Before having this, we went through a hand washing ritual, then ate with fingers - horse and mutton. Horse sausage - I don't recommend it! Mutton was pretty good. Then there were a few rounds of the vodka cup. The family patriarch was in his 80s and sat in state in a big wooden chair - everyone else on the ground. There was a separate ger for the kitchen and the hostess worked endlessly providing food etc for us all. Fantastic hand embroidered Kazakh hangings on the walls. Kazakh gers are larger than Mongolian ones and instead of felt insulation, have long grasses woven together with colors and patterns.
And moving on, or you won't hear much more...
            A night in Olgy, but no time for internet cafe. Ate at a good Turkish restaurant.
On to Khoton and Khurgan Nuur - two lakes. Close to Chinese border - we had to get permits to go there. Camped by Khurgan Nuur and were soon discovered by the locals who provided horses for us to ride to visit a family who had a baby wolf - they found it when it was tiny and had had it for 3 months. It was tethered and very tame. The ride was lovely. We visited another family where the woman did Kazakh embroidery. Ger was just in the trees (Siberian Larch I think) and had abundant mosquitoes.
In general I'm amazed at how arid the landscape is with short grass - semi-desert. At high elevations, there are some alpine plants in moist areas - tiny little gentians, edleweiss etc. Another spectacular starry night with shooting stars too.
            Packed up in grey weather and moved on just before the rain came. Bought some fish from Russian fishermen which we had for my birthday dinner at our next destination - Altai Tavanbogd National Park - 5 huge peaks in the extreme W corner of Mongolia - more permits required. My birthday was spent driving - over 11 hours. Couldn't go planned route because too much water so had to go a longer way. We were able to stay in a ger - again up above 3,000 meters (9,000 ft) and had an excellent birthday dinner of fish and Mongolian beer!
            Hazel you should be so proud of your Mum. Yesterday I rode 30 Kilometers! Even got some good posting trots going on my Kazakh horse and crossed rivers! I was being led, I have to admit, but was actually amazed that I could still walk after being out for 5-1/2 hours! In order to get the best view of these 5 enormous peaks, we had to do the 15 Km ride to get there. These mountains are over 4,200 meters high and have spectacular glaciers coming down. Only at the end of the ride, did we get into the beautiful alpine flora. Totally awesome experience.
            Well I have to go now. No more time to read this through, so I apologize if there are typos.
More when we get back to UB, or maybe before.
Much love, Maggie

 

5th Letter from Mongolia – 10^th August, 2009 – Back in Ulaanbaatar safely

Dear All,

We flew back to Ulaanbaatar yesterday and it felt like coming home. Hot water now working - the luxury of it is fantastic! While our clothes are being laundered, we are catching up on e-mail and have just eaten large Greek salads with real greens and veges!

Our trip to Western Mongolia was fantastic. We camped out for 7 nights, stayed in nomadic family gers for 3 nights, in a tourist ger camp in Olgy for 2 nights, and in a hotel in Ulangom for 2 nights. Amazingly, we were able to pitch and take down the tents in dry weather every time. We were very fortunate. The hotel was called The Five Star Hotel - what a joke - turns out it was named this because the owner has 5 sons. We had a nice spacious room and the bedding was clean, but no loo paper at communal toilet and only a thin spray of cold water from the sink. The bath house was outside across courtyard in a separate building and we had to pay extra - hot water only available at limited times and the showers needed some serious replumbing. The restaurant was expensive and the meat was fatty. Well, we left in one piece!

Ulaangom is a hot dusty miserable town. Our efforts to get lunch were not very successful - went to two restaurants both with extensive menus and staff, but apparently not very much food - it was somewhat reminiscent of the Monty Python cheeseshop sketch. The second place finally agreed to make us fried noodles if we waited 30 minutes - they were good when they came. The grocery stores were not much better - plenty of empty shelves with not much to offer.

We joined Soso (one of the teachers from the Center) who was teaching a group of 16 students. She arrived just before we did. The government office was supposed to provide sewing machines but there was only one. The second day, some of the women brought their own machines, so we had about 5. Soso started by teaching them to make folded fabric flowers and turtles - both hand stitched. I taught them rouching to make stems for the flowers and some different rouched flowers. I designed a basket from small triangles and a large triangle and showed them how to piece 1/2 square triangles. We pieced the basket and appliquéd it down with the flowers and it turned out nicely. We had just completed this when the local TV people arrived to interview us. Soso had brought small pieced samples of blocks, but did not bring any quilts from UB so I was glad we had at least one piece that looked reasonable. I also taught them to piece 1/4 square triangles and Flying Geese. Our flight yesterday was delayed by 7 hours, which meant that we were able to help with the teaching for the morning too.

On Saturday evening, after the class, we took Soso with us to Uvs Nuur - about 30 km away. We went by car (Selenge found the driver in the local shop - she has an amazing gift for talking to the locals and arranging things like this). It was a beautiful evening - we went swimming in the lake and had a picnic. The sunset was absolutely stunning. Uvs Nuur is the largest salt water lake in Mongolia and is a World Heritage Site. It is vast. Lots of birds there - cormorants and gulls (I missed my birding man - I know he would have loved it). Light wasn't very good for birding. Of course, there were mosquitoes there too. There was a large Mongolian family group nearby - the driver knew some of them and they invited us over to join their bbq. I'd just eaten 2 tuna fish sandwiches and was then presented a bowl of noodly soup and a there was a platter of meat that everyone tucked into with large quantities of fat....  We stayed as the sky turned pink, then left just before dusk - moonrise of the red moon was awesome. As it rose it turned from scarlet to orange to yellow.

Before Ulaangom, we went from Olgy to Lake Shaazgai. Selenge had never been to this area and was clearly worried. A guiding friend recommended this lake. On the way we passed Aschuit Nuur - another vast lake. We were going to camp there, but decided to keep going to Shaazgai. This was a good decision as it was a gorgeous place - smaller lake with mountains all round and 100s of ducks. In fact the Ruddy Shelducks were partying all night long on the first night and kept us awake. I thought they would be quiet when it got dark, but the moon was really bright and they squawked and quacked endlessly! We spent two nights there - the water was very salty and sludgy - 100s of ducks pooping in it as well as large herds of goats and sheep around the edges. I had a wonderful hike all afternoon. Got incredibly good views of two Mongolian Ground Jays - an excellent sighting (last trip to Gobi, I just got a fleeting view of this bird). After talking to locals, Selenge arranged for us to pick up a 17 year old girl who was studying English. She came with us for the night at a big waterfall 20 km into the mountains. She was able to show us the way and get a little English practice. We enjoyed having her along. The waterfall was beautiful and once again, we were fortunate with the weather - Snow Buntings flying around, Choughs, Cliff Swallows and one Alpine Accentor.

On the way to Shaazgai, we had vehicle trouble. A disc came off the van - something off the drive shaft. Fortunately, it happened at a level spot. The driver was amazing. He put on his heavy deel, after retrieving the part and got under the vehicle. He fixed it in about an hour - during that time, the mosquitoes attempted to feast on us and there was a heavy squall of rain. The driver was excellent - he kept the vehicle running well - he would tinker and make adjustments every day. He was also very helpful putting up the tents etc, getting water. One day he tried to burn the rubbish and poured petrol over it - it lit with a huge flare and his face was quite badly burnt and his hair singed at the back. We gave him ointment to help try to heal it. He didn't complain at all - it looked awful for about 3 days, then started to get better.

Back at Altai Mountains, we went to a nomadic family where they had a golden eagle for hunting. The poor creature did not look happy. It was tethered and moulting. During the spring and summer, they can't fly at all, then in the autumn and winter they are trained and used for hunting hare and fox. The boys were teasing it to try to get it to move and spread its wings - it was rather pathetic.

On our way to Olgy from Altai, we went to a place where there were 15,000-20,000 year old petroglyphs on the rocks - mostly animals, some with long horns. Baatchka (our driver) wanted to show me every single one and each time he found a new one, he'd call me over. They were brilliant - made up for the rather disappointing cave paintings earlier in the trip.

Well, I should close now. We have 5 days before the Japanese ladies arrive. I've been trying to show the seamstresses and designer good color combinations and fabric choices for the bags etc. There are several items in the shop (but the minority, I'm glad to say) that have been constructed from poor fabric combinations and will probably not sell. Quality control is a tricky issue - Selenge doesn't want to hurt the women's feelings, but some of the stuff in the shop needs to go. I'm hoping to get some time to teach them a few things. Selenge is stretched thin and clearly getting anxious about the Japanese arriving. She also wants me to help her with the Electric Quilt software for designing. Much to do, and it's not always easy to do it...

Love Maggie

 

 

6^th Letter from Mongolia – 15^th August, 2009
Dear All,

Life back in Ulaanbaatar is flying by. We only have another few days left and they will be busy now that the Japanese ladies have arrived. This afternoon we are going for a picnic with the teachers and seamstresses from the Center - there will be about 20 of us in all. Selenge is renting a bus and we will go about 50 Km to a new Chennghis Khaan monument out in the country. The plan is to purchase a sheep (live) when we get there and slaughter is for a bbq! I don't think the sheep will actually ride in the bus with us!

Each day we've done a variety of things and I usually get time in the afternoons to do some teaching to the teachers and seamstresses as well as helping Selenge with a variety of tasks. The new designer is excellent - she is so quick and often understands faster than Selenge can translate. We've been reviewing some basic techniques and have put together some quilt blocks. We've discussed fabric choices at length and I think I've finally got the message through on the best ways to highlight the Olzii pattern on the items being made. We actually went through the shop and I managed to persuade them to weed out the substandard things. Most of the items are very good, but sometimes they put things in that are made by inexperienced students. Anyway, the shop looks nice and is inviting. They've been making quite a few sales with the tourists in town. The women work well together and it's a good atmosphere. We had an amusing time when they were trying to teach me to count - I have to repeat everything several times to get the pronunciation, then my menopausal brain doesn't retain it for very long at all. I haven't got much further than neg (pronounced nig as in fig) - number one!

How many Mongolian women does it take to wind a bobbin of thread? When I was teaching in Western Mongolia, the bobbin ran out on the machine I was using in my demo (already a challenge as I was hand cranking and only had one hand to guide my patchwork pieces). The bobbin winder on the machine didn’t work. A lady produced a small screwdriver and put the bobbin onto it. She held it over the wheel. Another lady cranked the handle and another guided the thread. They fell about laughing when I told them to stop so that I get my camera and take a picture!

Had some good evenings back in UB. Went to a Korean Spa one day and had scrubs, sauna etc - felt so good to exfoliate after the 2 weeks of dust and not many showers in W Mongolia. Went out to summer camp one evening and Selenge's mother cooked us a delicious meal. Visited Uyanga and her family, Carol's knitting friend who also cooked very good Mongolian food. Tricia, the wife of the new British Ambassador, who is keen to volunteer at the Center and help Selenge (Yeah! - we are very excited about this), invited us to the pub at the Brit Embassy - we were on a guest list and had to show passports to get in. We met a very nice couple and their daughter and ended up going on to the best Indian restaurant in town with them (fabulous food). Daughter just graduated in geology from Durham University - same college as Thomas (what a small world this is - Joanna Marshall - a rower and women’s captain). Moira volunteers for IWAM and knew of Selenge's work and they had many friends in common. Keith in the mining business - interesting talking about this - Mongolia has the richest copper and gold reserves in the world, in the Gobi desert. Mining stalled by government bureaucracy. Huge potential for wealth and it has to be managed appropriately.

Last night we went to the theatre and took Selenge's parents and daughter. The show was wonderful - colorful dancing with gorgeous costumes and a sampling of hummi (throat singing) and music. Unfortunately, on our way out of the theatre, Carol had her money pouch stolen - Tg 300,000 (about $230). It was very distressing and the theatre people were most unsympathetic - they charged Carol for taking pictures. She got her money out to pay and the woman had to go away to get change. By the time she got back with the change and Carol moved to put it away in her pouch, the pouch was gone. It's hard to know exactly how this happened as Carol was clutching her bag close to her. Selenge acted quickly and talked to a young couple who were selling paintings and saw some suspicious activity. They were taken to police station and are working with the police to try to identify the thief. We also had to go to the police station after a young police officer came to the theatre. Theatre people were awful and shouting that it wasn't their responsibility. They were not at all apologetic or sympathetic that this happened on their facility and there was no offer to help or reimburse our ticket money (the response I would imagine in US or UK). Police will be back in touch with us on Monday - they were very nice, saw us quickly and were expressing regret that this happened to us in Mongolia. Fortunately, it was only money and no one was hurt. Carol's passport and credit cards were safe. All the same - very distressing and we weren't able to take Selenge's parents out for dinner.

We've been having fun with Aruika (Selenge's 12 year old daughter). She now speaks a little English and can understand quite a bit. She's very sweet and seems to enjoy being in our company.

We moved apartments yesterday - to Selenge's apartment which is smaller. The 5 Japanese ladies are at Selenge's parent's apartment where we were.

Other activities include going to the Black Market, 2 Cashmere outlet stores, visiting a place where felt was being handmade (quite a process of washing pounding and rolling), visiting local Singer sewing machine shop (one ruler for rotary cutting - prince $55!) and more.

Well I should probably stop now - we need to go back to the Center and help Selenge.

Looking forward to coming home after almost 4 weeks away.

Love Maggie

 

 

7^th Letter from Mongolia – 17^th August, 2009

Dear All,

Our time is coming to a close here. It's gone very quickly, although we both agree that we are ready and looking forward to going home. How blessed I am to have such a wonderful travel buddy. Carol is such a good friend and companion and so flexible, kind, easy and patient. We've had frustrating times with plans that sometimes get stalled by waiting around for Selenge or changes in schedule, but Carol takes it all in her stride and doesn't get stressed which makes it much easier for me to handle too. I do so appreciate her being here with me and we've had some great adventures and good laughs.

The Japanese arrived safely and yesterday we all crowded into a bus and 2 cars with Selenge's family, and the teachers and seamstresses with some of their children too - about 30 of us altogether. Half way there, the bus stopped and Selenge's Dad was at the roadside with some people and a sheep. After petting the sheep, its legs were bound and it was put on the floor of the bus. We rode out to a huge metal statue of Chenngis Khaan about 50 km from Ulaanbaatar. While the foreigners and kids went up the statue, the Mongolian women prepared for the bbq and the bus driver slaughtered the sheep (a 2 year old male). The statue is spectacular, commanding a good view of the surrounding countryside. We went inside the base, then up to platform near the top. The site is still under construction and there are grand plans for a ger resort and more. It's sponsored by a private organization. At the fence there was a guy with two hunting eagles. He cycled out there on his bicycle and one of the eagles was perched on a high frame attached to the bike! For Tg 2,000 (less than $2), you could pay to have take photos. I decided to do this and Selenge took my camera to take the pics. The guy warned me that the eagle was heavy and he wasn't joking. He gave me a big leather glove and the eagle perched on it on my outstretched arm. I had to raise and lower my arm to get the eagle to open its wings. It was very compliant, but so heavy.... Photos look good. On our way home in the dark, we saw the guy riding his bike back towards the city - one eagle on the handlebars and the other on the high perch on the back of the bike!

Back to the bbq. They set up near the river a couple of km away from the statue. By the time we got there, the sheep was already dead meat! The head was lying beside the fleece and they were chopping up all the bits. They cooked every part (except the head). They made blood sausages by pouring the blood into the stomach and bits of large intestines (after removing contents). They heated river stones in the fire and had a huge metal milk container. Hot rocks, water and good meat and bones all cooked in this over the fire and on another fire there was a huge bowl of water in which the organs were cooked. Took about half an hour to cook the meat in this way. We had salad and bread too. It was quite a feast. The wind was cold, but at least it stayed dry until we got back to a thunderstorm in the city. It was great fun. We sang in the bus on the way home and laughed a lot.

We are having an opening celebration of the Center on Wednesday. This is largely for the benefit of the Japanese, who we are hoping will help with future goals (expansion of the Center, website production, developing new products, improving marketing etc). I've spent most of the morning writing Selenge's speech while she took the Japanese to the cashmere outlet stores and Carol took Aruika shopping for school supplies.

I managed to get Chuck's lovely picture of the light coming into St. Barnabas framed here - this was amazing. We went to a framing shop - a basement round the corner. Selenge phoned and the guy came and opened up. He had a selection of frames on the wall, many of which were not available, but we found a good one that we liked. He did the job immediately, and by the time we had come back from lunch, it was ready. Total cost was Tg 10,800 - that's about $8. I'm mystified as to how the materials alone didn't cost at least 2x that amount! What a bargain - a far cry from the 2 weeks wait and minimum of $100.... His wife was thrilled when I gave them Tg 11,000 and told them to keep the change! The picture will be formerly presented to Selenge at the ritual on Wednesday. She has space on her office wall where she would like to hang it.

Time to go now and do some more quilting with the ladies. I probably won't have much time to write in the next couple of days, but will send you a wrap-up when I get home later this week.

Love Maggie

 

Final letter – 21^st August, 2009 - Back home safely

Dear All,
            Arrived home safely yesterday after a long day of travel - about 29 hours door to door. We pampered ourselves at Seoul airport by having a total body massage during our 8 hour layover. It's so good to come home - a real treat to be able to drink tap water, enjoy a bowl of cereal with milk, go to loo and it is clean and there is paper....

            I was ill just before we came back and exhausted for our last day when we had a celebration of the opening of the Center. The celebration went well. The Mongolian women (the teachers and seamstresses) dressed up in their best dels (traditional Mongolian silk tunics). Representatives from the Sukhbaatar District Ministry of Labour and Welfare came and gave us certificates of appreciation for our support for Mongolian women. They pledged their support for the future and will help expedite the necessary paperwork to expand the Quilting Center when we are able to raise the necessary funds (about $25,000 to extend out front and dig out the basement, which will double the space). We are optimistic that
the Japanese will be of assistance with this too. We presented Selenge with the framed picture from St. Barnabas for the Center. We had great fun with the Japanese ladies and enjoyed the time with them. Tricia invited us for 11’sies at the British Ambassador's residence and did us proud with tea served in English bone china cups, engraved EIIR silver, sausage rolls, cake and shortbread (all made by her Mongolian cook!). It was delightful.
            Glad to be home now. Penguin the cat is pleased to see me! I'm feeling tired and slow today - it will probably take me a few days to adjust.
Love Maggie

 

 

Carol’s Letters

#1 – 21^st July, 2009

Dear Friends,

            Greetings from Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia!!  We arrived safe and sound last evening after our long journey from the US.  The flights were fine although the last one was noisy with workers returning from their work contracts in Korea.  They were excited about returning home and their loved ones waitin to meet them at the terminal were just as excited when we exited customs. 

            No need to worry about us if you heard about the rains and flooding in Mongolia.  There is water collected on some of the streets, but nothing major here.  Apparently just west of here there was severe flooding and about 20 people died.  We're fine and enjoying some of the cooler weather brought along with the rain.  The temp will rise in the next few days.  We'll be staying here until Sunday when we head to Western Mongolia where we'll travel for a couple weeks.

            At the moment, we're sitting in Selenge's office at the Quilting Center.  It is wonderful!!!!  Their products are amazing and the teachers are so alive with their creativity.  They were welcoming when we arrived this morning and so excited about showing us their "digs."  The new quilt to celebrate the purchase is hung for all to see.  Maggie should be so very proud of her hard work.

            We're staying in Selenge's parents apartment where we stayed last time.  It is up on the 4th floor of the building without an elevator.  Of course there is no air conditioning and as a bonus we have NO HOT WATER.  It is off all over the city as the government is working on a boiler.  Maggie and I are innovative enough that we just boil a pan of water and add it to the (no kidding) glacier lake cold water to take a mini-bath. 

            This will catch you up on where we are at this time.  We're 15 hours ahead of you in time and my cell is working here if you need me in case of a real emergency.  206-619-6061. The adventure has just begun and I'm sure we'll have lots of tales to tell you.

Love, Carol 

# 2 – 24^th July

Dear Friends,

            It is our second day here in Mongolia and it has been a busy day getting things purchased for our trip to Western Mongolia.  We spent a good part of the day in the Black Market.  It wasn't too crowded, but quite dusty and HOT!!  Our purchases included candles and matches for Nomadic families, and some school items for their children.  It is a tradition that when you visit a family, before you depart, you leave a gift.  It doesn't have to be much, but they enjoy what we give them.

            We were awakened this morning (Maggie earlier than me) by lots of manpower noise.  Out in the street behind the apartment were probably 20 men who were bodily moving lines from a large spool and putting it into a hand dug trench.  When they had it off the spool, they then moved the lines under the street to the other side and stopped short of laying it in another hand dug trench.  We haven't had the time to do a direct inspection, but will make sure we do before our Sunday departure. 

            Construction is alive and well here in the city.  There are many new buildings including one that is a shorter version of that hotel in Saudi Arabia that looks similar to a sail on a boat.  Word has it that is the president's building paid for by bribe money.  Things aren't much different in other parts of the world.

            The Quilting Center is going strong.  The ladies are very busy sewing and creating. I wish some of you were here to see the creations they have made.  I have witnessed people visiting the store and purchasing items.  I have restrained myself, but I'm sure I'll add a dollar or two.  Actually, I ordered a wonderful computer bag.  It's difficult to pass quality handmade items. 

            I know I told you yesterday we were without hot water.  Well, on our return to the apartment, we learned that we had NO water!!  We drink only bottled water and refill our own personal bottles from a larger supply.  I've probably spent more time keeping hydrated here than ever before. 

            An interesting experience in the Black Market today - I am interested in purchasing some buttons that have a nice glass ball on one side and the Olzii on the other.  In the market, there are ladies walking around with trays of buttons and you search through to find the ones you want.  The first lady didn't have what I was looking for, so I thanked her and went on.  Another woman approached further down the aisle and she had some I was interested in, but Selenge wasn't there and I wasn't good at my Mongolian.  The next thing I knew, I was surrounded by ladies with buttons, much like fleas on a dog.  I really thought they would follow me to the car, but luckily, I out walked them.  Perhaps next trip to the market I'll purchase buttons.

            Enjoyed a nice bacon, cheeseburger at Millies.  Lots of folks enjoy a meal there - we did several times on our last trip.  Tonight, we're returning to the same place we had lunch yesterday - going for the lamb this time!!  Need my daily dose!

            Not much else to report. 

 Love, Carol

 

#3- 25^th July, 2009

Good Evening!

            Today has been mostly uneventful.  We are preparing to travel tomorrow morning early to Western Mongolia.  So much of the day has been spent purchasing food items to take with us although I'm convinced that they must have the same items in Khvod.  Selenge says NO, but I think we would be much better for packing if we could wait will we arrive there to purchase food.

Our weight limit for travel is 30 kg each.  Maggie and I have a combined weight of 25 kilos, so we're not the ones with a weight problem at this point.  Of course, we need to now add a couple of tents, sleeping bags and other camping equipment.  The load will be lighter when we return.  Our travel in Western Mongolia will be by Russian Jeep van.  The one we had three years ago was a true lemon as was the driver.  We managed to secure a nice driver and his jeep which was not a van.  That driver was wonderful and knew places that the tourists didn't venture to and the experience was much richer.  My favorite choice of his was the camel herder and the ride to the high sand dunes.  Don't know what the chances are for camels this trip.  We'll be searching for other wild life and birds.   

So, we're off on the next adventure.  Not sure when I'll have a chance to write again.  Guess I'll have to write in my notebook daily and update when possible.

Love, Carol

 

#4 – 3^rd August, 2009

 

Dear All!!
            We're still around - just haven't had email available.  Because there is so much to write, I'm going to give you a better update once we return to UB.  Don't have much time here this afternoon, but just wanted to let you know we are alive!
            This trip has had so many wonderful adventures that include:  sleeping in a ger with a Nomadic family, party with that family and a Kazakh family, 3 horseback rides, snow on my tent one morning, knowingly having a bite of horse, drinking goat milk and yak milk tea, watching the stars and Milky Way with Maggie at 3AM, one of the horseback rides was to view the 5 tallest peaks in Mongolia - both ride and view incredible, and so much more.
            We're in the town of Olgii tonight at a ger camp.  We stayed here before to get our permission to travel to the National Park.  There is a great Turkish restaurant where we'll have dinner.  We've become great cooks with our little one-burner stove.  I'm ready for some real food!
            I miss all of you.  Hope you are well.
Love, Carol

 

#5 - 9^th August, 2009 – Alive and Well

 

Dear Friends,

            We have arrived back in Ulaanbaatar after our wonderful 2 week trip to Western Mongolia.  There is so much to share and I'll have a chance to do it over the next several days.  It's good to be back in civilization!!  Maggie and I just enjoyed a wonderful Greek salad at one of our favorite eateries.  Today has been a day of getting dirty clothes to the wash-o-mat.  Nice to have someone do the washing for us.  Our clothes are really dusty.  Thank goodness we saved something here to wear upon our return.

            This internet place has exploded since our last visit to Mongolia.  I believe they have doubled in size which is not surprising as the location is really great and about a 10 minute walk from the quilting center.  The quilting center did an amazing amount of work while we were gone.  My computer bag is complete.  I'll be going to the Black Market this afternoon to select some woolen fabric for a new winter coat.  I want one in the style of a dell which is the traditional dress here.  It's quite different from my Olzii jackets.  Nothing better than made for you clothing!!

 

So, I'm going to add a little story here about a GER or yurt to some of you. I suggest you Google an image of Mongolian Ger to see a picture.          

           The ger is a portable home and has been used for years.  The usually dirt floor is encircled by an expandable lattice frame.  Over the frame are layers of felt and then the entire unit is covered by canvas and secured by rope around the girth of the ger.  The roof is domed with a hole in the top for the stove pipe and there is also a triangle piece that is opened each day for light and breeze.

Inside the ger, reached through the small door - make sure to duck your head, you will find things in a set order.  Guests move clockwise.  Once the ger is set, carpet or pieces of linoleum cover the dirt.  Depending on the size of the family and ger, there may be as many as 5 single beds of white metal placed around the ger.  If there are not enough beds for the entire family, bedding is neatly stacked along the wall and taken out at night.  Clothes are kept in suitcases with lovely large doilies or fabric covering each one.  Each person had their own case.  Carpets or colorful cloth hangs on the lattice frame to decorate and keep in the warmth.  In the center is the stove.  Dung is the source of fuel as there are not many trees.

            Modern age has come to Mongolia and the nomadic people.  Most gers have a solar panel and a satellite dish.  TV is black and white and the screen is pretty small.  Regardless, the family and friends gather round to watch their soap!  Clothes washing is done by hand and then laid our on rocks or grass where this is no poop!  Sometimes it's hung on the ger under the ropes.  If you're in a dry breezy location, laundry takes no time to complete.

The stove has a fairly large surface with a circular lid.  A basin about the size of a large wok is place there for cooking and preparing tea.  The tea is long leaf and mixed with milk from camel, yak, goat or sheep.  They also add salt.  I always wanted to add some sugar to the mixture, but reserved myself.  The tea is served in bowls and it's considered impolite to refuse a bowl.  We always just sipped a little at a time.  The tea was offered along with cheese, bread, and perhaps some cookies or candy. 

To the left of the door entering the ger was usually a slab or two of meat.  No fridge, but the meat seemed to keep well.  Hanging there was a type of cosmetic shelf containing toiletry items.  To the right of the door was a shelving unit containing all the cookware and some food items.  It was pretty much the same in all gers.  There might be a colorful piece of furniture with a mirror and photographs were hung there or nearby. 

 Life is simple in a ger.  I wondered if I might be able to live like the nomadic people.

            Enough for today.  I'll be seeing my friend Uyanga tomorrow and passing along some yarn.  Hope you are all well!!  Miss you!

Carol

 

 

#6 - 15th August, 2009

Dear Friends,

Still here in Mongolia until Thursday of this week.  We have been really busy and getting to the internet just hasn't been easy with our schedule.  We have watched people making felt, purchased some cashmere, been out to the countryside, and last night to a concert of Mongolian dance and music.  Just after the performance while I was leaving the theater, someone stole my money pouch.  It's a strange feeling to realize that you have had something precious taken from you without your knowledge.  I was really upset at the time, but have said since that nobody was hurt and it was just money - it was going to purchase a kilo of cashmere for knitting.  I'm ok, so don't worry.  Selenge is an attorney and we have been to the police and there are a couple of witnesses.  Will keep you posted. My latest writing is below.  Not sure I can get many more done before I get home, but will continue them then.  It's really fun thinking about the days and sights and having a chance to tell you some things about this country that I still find so interesting.

Carol 

Staying with a Nomadic Family

As we prepared to locate our second night to camp, the weather turned nasty.  Selenge knew someone in the area who has a spare ger and we hoped to stay there.  The day had been long and we were all at our end of driving/riding.  Botchka and Selenge talked to folks in nearby gers and learned the family had moved farther down the valley.  So, a Nomadic family said we would stay with them for the night. 

I don’t know if jet lag finally hit or I was just tired from the long, bumpy ride, but while Selenge and Maggie were preparing dinner I couldn’t keep my eyes open.  The next thing I knew, the herder moved a tray of cheese that was inside drying and patted on the bed for me to put my head down.  I did and I was a gonner.  I slept through dinner and when everyone went to bed, I was covered with my sleeping bag and continued to sleep. 

When I awoke in the morning, it was to the sound of bleating goats and sheep wanting to be milked.  WOW!!  Were they ever noisy.  The herder jumped out of his bed and went to move them further from the ger.  I looked around and observed 3 adults on the floor, 2 adults each with a child on a bed, and me (on a bed).  We prepared our own breakfast and stayed with the family – in and out of their ger – trying to avoid stepping in poop.  Because the herd gathers around the ger, you can imagine the amount of poop we managed to pick up on our shoes.  Can’t wait for the guy at immigration to ask if I’ve been on a farm! 

The air was cool, but then we were at 9,000 feet so the dung fire inside the ger felt really good.  In the late morning, we went for a horseback ride over towards the glacier.  The scenery was beautiful as we rode.  The land was very bumpy with little vegetative mounds which made the ride a little precarious at times.  We dismounted from the horses and since I could see the ger and the van, I decided to walk back.  So happy I did, because I don’t believe I would have been able to capture the wonderful view of a herder retrieving his herd from the steep hillside.  As I was walking, I heard some singing.  It was a herder dressed in traditional clothing on his horse at times going up the side of the hill.  It was a little tough going at times, but he was persistent in his climb and gathered those little buggers and headed them home.  It was a delight to see the herder in action.

That evening we pitched our tents not too far from the ger.  Our dinner was hash browns, sausage and scrambled eggs – real comfort food.  Good that we had that for when we awoke in the morning, there was snow on and around our tents.  THAT was a surprise!!!  

Partying with a Kazakh family and How I came to eat horse sausage

After we dusted the snow off the tents and had a little breakfast, we packed the van and went to say goodbye to our Nomadic hosts.  They were having issues of their own that morning.  It seems their herd became mixed with another herd and the father and sons were down separating them.  It was fun to watch the action.  One of the little grandsons is quite a herder himself at the age of 9.  Even the smaller ones were able to keep the herd at home.  Our driver even hopped on a horse and went to help!

Once the herd was home, we learned that a Kazakh herder had been to visit the Nomads and had invited them and neighboring herders to a party at their home and we had been included in the invitation.  This was an opportunity of a lifetime and we certainly wanted to take advantage of the invite.  About noon, we loaded our van with extra people and headed over the countryside to the party location.  We were greeted warmly upon our arrival and I noticed immediately the division of men and women.  We were given the usual milk tea and bread and this time had clotted cream for the bread.  It was tasty.

There were many conversations around the circle with many questions asked of us and about us.  I had a book of Bainbridge Island which they seemed to enjoy viewing.  When it was time for the meal, we all took part in the hand washing of water poured over our hands.  Then we all sat on the floor on a huge mat with platters of meat and noodles.  The meat was pieces of mutton and horse sausage (sorry Lynn).  The people eat with their hands and they were totally engrossed in the moment.  I have to say, the meal was really good.  The horse sausage was a surprise and I only had a taste so as not to offend my hosts.

Tea was offered again and then vodka.  I was asked to drink the glass at once, but politely declined and just took a sip.  We had a shot for the road and then expressed our thanks to all and headed out over the bumpy hills and valleys to our next destination filled with memories of a couple fun days.

#7 - 20^th August, 2009

Hello All!!

     Maggie and I are spending 8.5 hours relaxing in the airport in Seoul, Korea.  It is a beautiful facility and has some fun things to do.  We painted fans, are resting in a free lounge area where you can stretch out, and at 3PM will each have a massage.  Kinda nice to relax before the 10/11 hour flight home to Seattle.

     This trip has been so much fun.  I have a couple stories to share with you which I promise to do once I get to Seattle.  We finished off the trip with a great celebration of the opening of the center.  There were local officials there from the community who pledged their support to Selenge when she is able to expand the facility.  Hope it's not just political speak!  We celebrated the end of the visit with dinner at a hot pot restaurant.  Good stuff!!!  The Japanese women left at 1:00AM this morning and we were up at 3:30AM for our 6:45AM flight. 

     We're tired, broke, but so happy to have made this trip.  We have gone beyond the walls and made new, lasting friendships!! 

See you soon!

Love, Carol